Day 15: Preacher Pass to Helena (24 miles)

Hopes that the railroad tracks next to my camping spot being lightly used were utterly shattered. Had about half of a dozen trains come through last night. Needless to say, I did not get a great nights sleep. Then there were the cattle that decided to come through my camp about 6:00 am

Really have to wonder about a day that starts with a wrong turn essentially right out of camp. The place I choose to camp was no less than 100 yds shy of where I needed to turn off the main road but did not discover I was heading in the wrong direction until my ass had peddled uphill for 1½ miles. I REALLY need to look down at my GPS MUCH more often.

Once I was back on the right road it was time to keep an eye out for water as I started the day fairly low. It’s really dry on this side of the Divide. River beds without a trickle in them. About two miles before making my 4th Continental Divide crossing I spot a water trough about 150 yds off the trail. I take out my water filter bag and go investigate. There is water spilling out of a pipe and looks pretty good. I fill the bag with about 2 liters of water and walk back to my bike to filter it into my water bladder.

Feeling much better about having water I nearly speed across the relatively low Priest Pass that sits at an elevation of 5,994 ft. From that point, it’s nearly all downhill into the Capital of Montana… Helena. The downhill eight-mile ride on the very generous shoulder of Highway 12 felt like I was riding a motorcycle, not a bicycle.

Helena is by far the biggest ‘city’ on the route so far. Haven’t been away from the urban life for long but peddling down the city streets oohing and ahhing as if I’ve been living in the backwoods for the last 30 years. However, my attention is really set on making the number one destination for now… The bike shop.

I arrive at the Garage Bike Shop around 1:00 and as I come through the door of the shop, pushing my bike I’m greeted by Steve the owner and some of the very first words out of his mouth are the sweetest words I’ve heard in a few days, “want a beer”? HELL YES! I reply.

As I savor the beer, I explain my woes of not having a gear low enough to keep me pedaling up many of the grades I’ve met so far. He put my bike on the stand to assess the situation. Well, the solution is never easy, however, its nothing money can’t fix. I decide to stick it out with what I have, even though sometimes I feel I’m hiking the Great Divide MOUNTAIN BIKE Route.

My bike on the stand in a shop in Helena MT

My bike on the stand at the Garage Bike Shop in Helena MT

While my bike is on the repair stand I have him attend to other issues, like that damn leaky valve on the rear wheel and also have him clean the very nasty looking chain. While he tends to those I’m gonna search out some lunch and ask where is a good ‘cheap’ place to eat here in downtown Helena. Steve gives a couple of options and the burrito place sounds perfect. Cheap and only two blocks away.

Steve fixed my bike issues. Turns out the actual stem was not the problem. Apparently, I nicked the seal tape either installing the tire on the rim or when I replaced a valve at Toms. The air just happened to find it’s final escape at the valve. Regardless I’m good to go now.

With that taken care of, I need to find a place to stay for the night. Can’t remember the last time I had a shower so I’m on the hunt for cheap hotel lodging. Helena has this really cool walking mall area downtown with neat shops and restaurants. I’m pushing my bike around that area and it’s not long before I get asked, are you riding the Divide? I stop and talk with the couple for a few minutes, hearing how she would like to do it but can’t talk her husband into it. I ask them about hotels and the Motel 6 they tell me about sounds about the best option. They point me in the right direction and off I go.

Of course, it’s all the way on the other side of the city, maybe four miles. Nearly there I really need to use the bathroom and decide to use the one at McDonald’s. Of course, a stop at McDonald’s is an excuse for a calorie infusion called a Frappe’. I love those things. Those are about the only reason you will see me at McDonald’s… After breakfast that is. I kind of like the breakfast there.

Enjoying my drink sitting in McDonald’s, I’m within just a couple blocks of all the hotels, Comfort Inn, Super 8, No-tell-mo-tell, etc. So I look up Motel 6 and give them a call. They have a vacancy and the price is reasonable. Time for a shower and to wash these darn stinky clothes.

At the hotel, I take just about everything off the bike, bags, gear, etc to either dry out or wash. With me and most of my gear now clean I head out to get some dinner and do some supply shopping. Funny damn thing is I almost crashed riding the bike because it behaves so different without all the weight on it.

Just around the corner, there are a lot of places to eat and pizza sounds good. Not much to my amazement anymore, I put away an entire large pizza and left the restaurant not completely satisfied. From there I went across the street to Albertson’s grocery. I haven’t seen an Albertson’s since leaving Tucson. What a welcome see a familiar sight as I did all my shopping there during my time In Tucson.

Headed back to the hotel all restocked, ready to rock with some dessert to finish what the pizza didn’t.

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