9/21/15

First miles out of camp this morning was climb out of ‘Rocky Canyon’. Fortunately, it wasn’t nearly as steep or long as the canyon I had to climb out of yesterday. The first 15 miles of the route was a nice dirt road with a 4 mile stretch of that of riding right on the Continental Divide. After the dirt section, the remaining 35 miles to Silver City were paved.

The map indicated I should find some dining and convenience stores about 5 miles after hitting the pavement, near Lake Roberts. Even if it was a little early for lunch by the time I came to these, a stop would be absolutely necessary. I was low on food and would need some good energy to make the climb looming between me and Silver City.

Came across some lodging that had a sign indicating a café, but the sign said nothing about a convenience store. Some people were sitting on the front porch and waved as I passed. Rode on about 100 yards before deciding to turn around and ask where I might find the store on the map. Was told they have some items and I was welcome to look around. Took them up on the offer and hoped to maybe find something to supplement my meager breakfast. Then I could make a stop at the store they said was on the other side of the lake. Strolling through this tiny store sure hoped the other one was bigger with more choices for lunch.

Having been out of cell service since Grants I took advantage of the wifi at the cafe/store while putting away an orange soda, a fruit pie, and some cookies. Back on the bike again I kept an eye out for the ‘other store’. When I did find it, someone sitting on the front porch with a laptop on his lap. Well, it’s a good thing I stopped and bought something to eat a few miles back because this store is now only open on the weekends and today is Monday. Like the post office in Grants and the Pie-O-Neer café in Pie Town… I’m late again.

Soon I would begin what I hoped was the last ass kicking the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route would hand me. As I ascended the 2000’ climb on highway 15, that leads to Silver City, was pleased to find this road was even less traveled than the one I turned off, which is fortunate because it is narrow, very curvy and full of switchbacks. Knew I was in for a climb when I could smell the brakes of a car that passed me its way down.

Just a mile or two into the climb it started to rain and stayed a light rain for several miles. For the first segment of this climb, the mountain was on my right and I was doing pretty well to keep the peddles moving, only taking an occasional break to rest.

At one point the road took a turn to the right in front of me, beyond the other side of the curve I could hear a car coming. Not only did I hear the car but also the unmistakable (and very unsettling) sound of tires skidding on wet pavement. With an embankment just off to my right, I began unclipping from my peddles in order to make a climb up and away from danger, if that car should come around the curve out of control. Well climbing out of danger wasn’t necessary because the car didn’t make the curve and went off the side of the road, directly to my left.

Couldn’t believe what I had just witnessed. The car went down off the side of the road about 40 feet before coming to a stop. I laid my bike down and went to see if anybody was injured. Still huffing and puffing from the climb, I managed to ask the driver as he climbed out of the car if he was ok. He gave me a “yeah” and went about climbing back up to the road like he did this all the time. Told him I’m pretty sure I didn’t have cell coverage to call for help. He just looked at me and said, “well, I have a friend with a truck in Lake Roberts. I’ll just walk there”. Before he started down the hill I asked one more time if he was ok. He said “yep” and on his way he went, leaving me standing there in disbelief. This is absolutely the freakiest thing I’ve seen in 2,700 miles of the route.

The car that didn’t quite make the curve. The view from where I laid down my bike.

The rains just kept getting harder and harder. Did switch over to my full rain gear but all that really does is keep me warm. It’s like wearing a plastic bag. Peddling uphill, my gear gets just as wet from sweat on the inside as it does from rain on the outside.

Before too long the downhill reprieve heading into Silver City, that I had been looking forward too, finally came. Riding into Silver City I was the absolute wettest I had been since leaving Banff. No camping tonight for me. I knew from the map there was an Econolodge in town so I google mapped it and headed right for that part of town. When I got close, as expected, there were other places too such as my favorite cheapie, but clean, Motel 6.

Next to all of those places to stay was a Taco Bell. Well, the plan just became hitting Taco Bell first to get something to eat, warm up a bit and call the motels to see who can give me the best rate for the night. Typically when I make a stop to eat or shop I lean my bike up against the building where I can have eyes on it from inside and generally leave my helmet on the bike too. Well, not this time.

Parked the bike feeling like a drowned rat I kept everything on. Went into the bathroom just to dry my now pruned hands in the hand dryer. Boy did that seem to take forever for my hands to feel remotely dry.

I was the only customer in the place and surely looked pitiful with still no desire to remove my helmet or any rain gear. Standing at the counter trying to decide what to order I was in no big hurry, just glad to be out of the pouring rain. The guy behind the counter started asking me about my ride. All the typical where you headed? Where did you start? How long have you been riding? By now I’ve become pretty accustomed to the reactions I get but still enjoy seeing it… Even soaking wet, cold and hungry. He says I see you guys all the time but was afraid to ask. I told him hell, don’t be afraid to ask a cyclist about their trip, we’re all cool people ALWAYS willing to share our story.

Then I heard him say the words that manage to put a lump in my throat every time I’ve heard it on this trip. “I want to buy you lunch”. The fact that a complete stranger wants to do something so kind as to buy my lunch manages to bring up a ton of raw emotion.

I couldn’t thank Pete enough for his generosity. I think he could see that his gesture really touched me.

Pete, the manager at Taco Bell that bought me lunch after hearing about my adventure. Thank you Pete!

 

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